Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

The southern “capital” of Vietnam is Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), although for most people it is probably better known as Saigon.

Saigon was the capital of the Republic of Vietnam from 1956-1975 and where most American G.I.s spent their “free time”. It also provided the setting for Graham Greene’s well known novel, “The Quiet American”. Saigon was renamed Ho Chi Minh City by the Hanoi government after reunification. Given all that has been written about HCMC, I kept wondering if the city would live up to the ideas put in my head by popular culture yet, I also had no idea what to expect.

When I casually announced over coffee my plans to visit HCMC, my friend Bethany gave me a funny look. Bethany is an acquaintance that I met through my friend Hieu in Canada. Last year, Bethany came to Hanoi to teach English. Now, she is working as a graphic designer at a wonderful contemporary clothing boutique that specializes in Australian-Vietnamese fashions called “Contraband”. The clerks at the Hanoi boutique always smile and take me by the arm whenever I enter the shop. They know I have a weak spot for great fashion at affordable prices (and yes, I am on their e-mail list...they have new pieces in every week!).

I asked Bethany why she was giving me a funny look when I told her I was going to HCMC. Bethany sighed and knowingly explained, “Most people have a love-hate relationship with Hanoi or HCMC. Wherever you first land, that’s where your heart will be. If it’s Hanoi, it’s Hanoi. If it’s HCMC, it’s HCMC.” So I set out to find out if this was indeed true.

It’s true.

For me, HCMC was just like any other big city in North America. It is much bigger than Hanoi, but it lacks the disorienting intensity and Soviet-French-Asian flavour that grips you by the collar of your shirt and slaps you around a bit in Hanoi. HCMC is a bit more "western"...a bit more...how shall I put this..."Toronto"? And if that's true, than I will go so far as to say that Hanoi is kind of like a magical blend of Montreal and Ottawa. I am therefore "Gemma in Wonderland", minus the Madhatter and dancing teapots.

Hanoi is like Ottawa in that it is decidedly a government town – tons of embassies, NGOs and ministries are located here. You might even say that it is “conservative”, as things get quiet around midnight. However, it also oozes with culture and old world charm, in addition to little idiosyncratic characteristics that always keep you guessing, like Montreal. I can therefore attest that Bethany's prediction was true. I landed in Hanoi, therefore Hanoi is decidedly where my heart is.

That is not to say that HCMC does not have a lot to offer. It does!

HCMC has a big city vibe to it, with a climate that is much more tropical than its northern counterpart. One of the main roads downtown is called Don Khoi street (a.k.a. "Rue Catinat"). The street is equivalent to the Rodeo Drive of Hollywood, with many upmarket restaurants and designer boutiques carrying the names of: Louis Vuitton, Burburry, Roberto Cavalli and Gucci. (And no, nobody took me by the arm in any of these boutiques and I'm afraid I don't make enough to be on their mailing lists!).

The stand-out for me was the Mojo Cafe on Dong Khoi. There, I was fortunate to spend a few hours reading my book, sitting in a cushy leather chair, eating quite possibly the best turkey club of my life while sipping a silky latte, listening to lounge music gently playing in the background surrounded by contemporary (yet warm) decoration and furnishings...it was a terribly indulgeant and lazy afternoon which tickled my fancy.

Later, I would take myself out for dinner at Cantina, which is a Mexican restaurant not far from my hotel, nestled between some really kitschy but quaint home decoration stores. You can't miss Cantina because it is illuminated in fluorescent pink lighting. Sitting at the bar, the owner struck up a conversation with me and plied me with authentic home made tortilla chips and salsa and what he boasted were the strongest margharitas in Vietnam (I agree). He kept asking me about the business climate in Hanoi and I encouraged him to open up a branch of Cantina in the capital. It would be the first mexican resturant to my knowledge in Hanoi. And who doesn't like quesadillas?

Dong Khoi street is also where the Hotel Continental is located. The Hotel Continental is where much of "The Quiet American" is set. Around the corner from the hotel where I was taking a picture, I came across a street vendor who was selling pirated (photocopied) books at a fraction of the real book price. She motioned to a copy of "The Quiet American". As we both didn't speak enough of the other's language, I shrugged my shoulders and indicated that I had already read it using large hand gestures and a thumbs up sign. She motioned to other books on her stand. I also indicated in pantomime that I had read them. She went back to the Quiet American book and then in her own pantimime, she pretended to run down the street and faint. I thought, "What a fun game of charades!". She made the motion of a movie and I immediately understood that she was an extra in "The Quiet American" starring Brendan Fraser and Michael Caine. The street vendor and I roared in laughter and then I was on my way again.

Now a note about my hotel, "The Palace". For some odd reason, all of the small hotels in HCMC were full on the weekend that I visited, so I basically had to take whatever was free. The room that I was in was on the 4th floor, lodged in between the hotel club on the 3rd floor and renovations on the 5th floor. In other words, from 7am-5pm, all I could hear were drills and hammering. Then, from 9pm-1am, all I could hear was loud techno music with the bed shaking. Not so relaxing! It's a beautiful hotel though, and the breakfasts on the rooftop terrace were delightful. I also managed to complain loudly enough that the concierge plied me with a few drink coupons for the rooftop restaurant so that I could escape for a nightcap (or two) when the music from the club was too unbearable in my room.

Despite my attempts to book a tour to the Mekong Delta, I was also out of luck. So, what to do? I went to the spa. Weary from my previous night's fits of sleep, I entered a quiet spa where I abruptly signed up for a $15 USD massage. The masseuse ushered me to a table. I passed out almost immediately, only to be awoken 2 hours later by a little voice and hand that patted me on the shoulder saying, "Madame. Finished." I opened my eyes to see a tiny little woman smiling at me. She worked me so well that I weaved my way down the stairs like a drunken sailor. The best massage I have ever had in my life! Where that little woman got her strength from, I have no idea.

I scurried to my next appointment - a facial at the trendy, "L'Apothicaire" spa, which is a favourite of ex-pats and tourists (especially the Japanese, since everything was written in hiragana!). I had the last appointment that day, so the shop was thankfully quiet. It is located in a lovely refurbished colonial building with a winding staircase. The products that they use are all imported from France. I felt pampered from head to toe. At the end of my appointment, I struck up a conversation with the sales manager, who I found out was Filippina. Again, I urged her to consider opening up a shop in Hanoi. The more people I spoke to, the more it was interesting to see that the perception in HCMC is that the business climate in Hanoi isn't very good. Nonetheless, you can sneeze in downtown Hanoi and when you open your eyes, a new shop has appeared out of nowhere.

HCMC was entertaining to say the least, but my heart belongs to Hanoi.